Keeping A Horse On A Budget
Here’s some good news for all! It is possible to reduce costs when keeping horses to make them a more affordable pet without compromising their happiness and well-being. Although it does mean a little sacrifice on part of the owner… read through and see if this option is for you.
The horse:
Firstly, purchase the horse with your budget in mind. Horses are becoming increasingly expensive to buy and care for but if you are careful and clever, you can buy an affordable horse to suit your needs.
When you start out looking for a horse of your own to buy or lease, bear in mind its metabolism. Thoroughbreds for instance, are not good horses for the tight budget as although they are often free or cheap to purchase, they often require expensive supplements and a great deal of careful feeding to keep them in top condition. Most horses of the Thoroughbred type are poor doers.
Find yourself an easy keeper… a horse that isn’t prone to stressing and keeps condition on a less expensive diet. For instance crossbreds, especially those with plenty of pony influence or a touch of hardy breeds like the Arabian or Quarter Horse.
However with easy doers, beware! Keep an eye on them and maintain a healthy level of feeding as per their exercise routine as too much rich food can easily lead to painful and possibly fatal problems such as Laminitis and Colic. Horses with hard hooves are less likely to need shoes and well bred, robust horses are less likely to fall ill and require Veterinary attention. You are likely to find that less is more when it comes to feeding these types although be sure if you are not familiar with the rules of feeding, to consult an Equine Nutritionist or your local Horse Veterinarian on an appropriate diet to correspond with your horse’s exercise schedule, type and living conditions.
Age is also a point to consider. Elderly horses (18yrs of age +) are likely to require plenty of supplements and medical attention to keep them sound and healthy. Young horses (up to 8yrs of age) will require professional handling and training which can be a pricey expenditure.
Also all riders need lessons whether you’re a professional competitor sharpening up, an intermediate keen to advance, a beginner learning all there is to know or a casual weekend pleasure rider just ensuring no bad habits have developed. You need to consider your horse’s ability to help you as a rider in your chosen field.
The Vet Check:
The Vet Check is the most important and often over-looked aspect of purchasing a new equine friend! Your Horse Vet can alert you to potential problems that could lead to expensive procedures or medications or frequent visits from said Veterinarian.
The equipment:
Although it is very important to have a new bit, free of rust, burrs, wear and other blemishes that could cause him pain, and your saddle professionally fitted for your equine friend’s comfort, other equipment such as buckets, rugs etc does not need to be an overly pricey venture.
Visit your local Second Hand saddlery store, browse Ebay and check out the local Newspaper Classifieds with your horse’s measurements in hand. You can purchase riding gear for yourself, rugs, halters, grooming gear, boots and bandages, saddle blankets and more at very reasonable prices and in good condition if you shop around.
Rugging:
Did you know, not all horses need to be rugged? Almost all breeds grow a nice thick coat in winter can easily keep themselves at a comfortable temperature day in, day out through the cold winter months.
Be prepared though, in order to keep warm horses will often roll in mud which forms a insulation-like coating for them. If you are choosing not to rug your horse, refrain from washing them very often as not only will washing remove the water-proofing oils in the coat, it will also be very cold for them and a lengthy process drying a long winter coat. Also when grooming, ONLY GROOM THE PART WHERE YOUR SADDLE, SADDLE-PAD AND GIRTH will go as your horse, however mucky, will require to keep his insulative layer of natural coat-oils and mud for when the weather is bad.
It is recommended that in spring when your horse is shedding his winter coat, a good grooming once a week will help remove the shedding hair, massage him and help a glossy summer coat. If you are rugging your horse in Winter, groom often for a nice, healthy and shiny coat.
If you have purchased a horse that is used to being rugged in the poor weather, refrain from stripping him of his rug immediately and sending him off to fend for himself. A good way to accustom your horse to life without a rug is to steadily get him used to it by only rugging him when it is very cold and then eventually, not rugging at all. If you do this in stages during the season he will grow used to living quite comfortably without his rug.
Bear in mind, if you are not rugging your horse you will have to provide him with extra feed as keeping him warm will take a lot of energy so feed must be supplemented in the colder weather to help him keep his good condition.
You must also consider your horse when thinking of trimming or clipping any part of his body. Long thick manes and forelocks whilst look unkempt, are important to keep the rain flowing off your horse rather than soaking into his neck. The forelock also keeps insects and dirt from your horse’s eyes. Ears too, should be left natural as the long hairs are highly significant, keeping midges and unwanted objects out of his long, sensitive ears. A thick bushy tail keeps warm and dry the part of the horse that would lose heat the most quickly so leaving that well alone would be best for him. Bushy feathers on the legs and fetlocks do an adequate job of flowing water into the ground and away from the heels and hooves.
The Home:
The horse’s home does not need to be a lavishly facilitated Equestrian Centre! Although these things are nice – if one is on a budget, one must think more sensibly. It all depends on what you want to do with your horse.
If your style is simply riding for pleasure on the trails and the occasional Riding Club outing, a well fenced and well tree’d paddock will do. It is very important you have safe fencing as accidents in barbed wire, ring-lock, loose strands or sharp points can not only be exceedingly painful for your equine friend to suffer, but also very expensive to treat.
You will need trees and thick bushes to provide shelter from the elements and access to clean water 24 hours a day. Just hiring a paddock such as this, or building your own is not a very expensive deal. You could also provide a simple garden shed to store your feed and/or equipment in, or store this at home.
Land is important too. You don't want boggy, sloppy ground in winter as this can damage your horses hooves terribly. Neither do you want rocky ground which can lead to lameness, or sand which can cause colic when ingested along with feed. You want a minimum of an acre per horse or pony grazing in it and if your paddock is small, you will need to pick up the manure regularly and move your horse to a new paddock now and again to give the land a rest. Horses when left to their own devices graze for around 20 hours a day and their hooves cut up the turf easily so to avoid barren wastelands that were once decent paddocks, think about these options.
For those that require a little more, look into a DIY (do it yourself) stable, where you can cut costs by taking care of your horse yourself. You may find a safe paddock you can use, or a local Agistment Centre offering this option.
Some places have simple arenas and paddock shelters, others have a grander scheme. Look into your possibilities whether you intend to agist or keep your horse at home to work out what you can and can’t realistically do.
The more arenas, wash-bays, stables, round-yards and services your potential stable has, the more it will cost. Work out what you require from your horse and what you can afford to do with your horse before you buy it. You cannot actively compete a clipped show-jumper from a simply paddock set-up and why pay for full board and expensive facilities when all you want to do is have fun on the weekends?
Care:
Of course some things cannot be helped. You must render your horse sufficient Veterinary, Dental, Chiropractic and Hoof care when needed. Drenching, Teeth floating, trimming (or shoeing if your horse cannot live comfortably without them) is a necessity of equine life. But if you keep these things up-to-date not only will your horse live a long and happy life, you will also be preventing some heartbreaking and expensive disasters!
Article and Photograph by Jessie Barbour